Fez, the former imperial capital of Morocco, has left a deep impression on us, with its dense history and authentic daily life. The country’s third-largest city, it is home to the world’s oldest medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as Al Quaraouiyine University, founded in the 9th century and considered the oldest still in existence. In this article, we share with you 8 reasons to visit the fascinating city of Fez.
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Is Fez worth a visit?
Yes, go without hesitation! Fez is a world city, a concentration of history, crafts and gastronomy that will surprise you at every turn. We recommend it to all travelers in search of an artistic, historical and gastronomic immersion in Morocco.
We list the reasons in more detail below, or you can check out our selection of the city’s top attractions.
Reason 1 – A thousand-year-old UNESCO medina, the oldest in the world
Fès el-Bali is quite simply the oldest inhabited medina in the world. Built in the 9th century by Moulay Idriss II in a basin near the Sebou River, it now boasts 14,000 listed buildings, 137 mosques and 23 public hammams. We were captivated by this immediate immersion in intact medieval urbanism, where the two main arteries, Talaa Kbira and Talaa Sghira, guide visitors through an endless labyrinth. Along the alleyways, you’ll discover the Dar al-Magana hydraulic clock with its 13 windows, historic fondouks and interconnecting terraces that reveal the city from above. ThisUNESCO World Heritage Site has to be earned: bring good shoes, accept to get lost and let the medina tell you its story at its own pace. Entrance is free, and there are several gateways, including the famous Bab Boujloud, with its blue and green zelliges, one of the most photographed symbols of the imperial city.
Take a half-day guided tour of the Medina of Fez with a local guide!
WHERE TO STAY IN FES
Our favorites: neighborhoods and hotels
In Fès El-Bali (old medina)
Hotel Riad Dar Lys – See prices, photos and availability
Hotel Riad Dar Laura – See prices, photos and availability
Fès El-Jdid (near the Royal Palace)
Palais Faraj Suites & Spa Hotel – See prices, photos and availability
Reason 2 – An outstanding architectural and religious heritage
Beyond the medina itself, Fès boasts a density of historic monuments that is rare in the world. The Al Quaraouiyine Mosque, inseparable from the university of the same name founded in the 9th century by Fatima Al-Fihri, is the second largest in Morocco. Its white minaret, one of the oldest in the country, and its green tiles can be seen from the surrounding streets. A little further afield, the Attarine and Bou Inania Medersas illustrate the apogee of Merinid art in the 14th and 15th centuries: geometrically patterned zelliges, hand-carved cedar wood and remarkably fine stucco. We were struck by the decorative perfection of these places designed for religious instruction. The Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, the city’s founder, is a major place of pilgrimage in the heart of the medina, whose immense doors and woodwork bear witness to exceptional sacred architecture. Finally, the monumental gates of the Palais Royal in the Fès Jdid district, framed by thousands of small blue and green ceramic tiles, share a final striking testimony to the architectural refinement of the imperial city.
Discover more on a guided tour of the medina!
Reason 3 – Ancestral craftsmanship, the living soul of the city
Fès is one of the world’s capitals of traditional craftsmanship, and we felt it with every step we took in the medina. The Chouara Tanneries are its most spectacular emblem: over 250 families perpetuate a centuries-old know-how, dyeing leather with poppy, indigo, henna or saffron using techniques that have remained unchanged for generations. We watched this colorful ballet from the terraces of the leather goods stores, fresh mint in hand to attenuate the characteristic odors. Beyond the tanneries, the medina is home to specialized souks where each alleyway has its own specialty: dyers, spice merchants, copper craftsmen, potters and weavers still work by hand. The Musée Nejjarine, a treasure trove housed in a former 18th-century fondouk, traces the history of the arts and crafts of wood, from southern cattails to customary law plates written on palm or poplar. To visit Fez without stopping off at a workshop is to miss its very soul.
Visit the Chouara Tanneries with a local multilingual guide!
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Reason 4 – The finest cuisine in Morocco
Fès cuisine, known as fassia, enjoys a reputation that Moroccans themselves readily acknowledge: it’s the most sophisticated in the country. This age-old culinary tradition is based on complexly flavored tagines, pastilla with pigeon and almonds, couscous perfumed with spices and harira soup, eaten to break the fast during Ramadan. We also discovered gazelle horns, kaab el-ghzal (gazelle horns), and khlii, meat preserved in fat, two specialties that bear witness to a know-how inherited and passed down with care. The Fès-Meknès region also produces some excellent wines, notably Syrah and Volubilia, which we were delighted to taste. To suit all budgets and styles, the city offers a wide range of restaurants: from the Café-restaurant Moulay Idriss on the Talaa Kebira thoroughfare for traditional, sincere cuisine, to the Restaurant Ishq for a colorful bistronomic approach, not forgetting the Restaurant Gayza at the Riad Relais & Châteaux for a gourmet meal in an exceptional setting. You can also book a cooking class and take the recipes home with you.
Reason 5 – A city to live in as much as to visit
Fez is more than just a tour of monuments: it’s a living city. As the cradle of Arabo-Andalusian music since the 11th century, we were invited to discover the “ala”, the classical Moroccan musical tradition, during evenings combining gastronomy, Sufi songs and sometimes dance, in sumptuously decorated riads. We were transported by these age-old melodies performed in an intimate atmosphere. Every year in May, the Festival des musiques sacrées du monde brings together artists from all over the world at emblematic venues in the medina. Find out more on the official website here.
Another interesting experience to try out is the hammam, which is an integral part of daily Fassia life, whether popular or more refined. You can book your hammam time here. Last but not least, evenings with dinner and a traditional show are an ideal way to round off a day of discovery.
A LITTLE MORE PATIENCE
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Reason 6 – Green spaces and unexpected panoramas
You might think of Fez as a dense, mineral city, but there are plenty of surprises in store for you when it comes to nature and horizons. The Jnan Sbil gardens, opposite the Palais Royal, are the most eloquent example. Created in the 19th century, they bring together more than 3,000 plants and trees over a hundred years old in a peaceful botanical space dubbed “the garden of lovers”. Here we found a welcome counterpoint to the hustle and bustle of the alleyways: bigarad trees, palm trees, ponds and fountains provide an ideal setting for a break. For panoramic views, two sites complement each other perfectly. The Tombeaux des Mérinides, the royal necropolis of the dynasty that reigned from 1269 to 1465, offer a breathtaking view of the whole medina and the surrounding mountains of Mont Zalagh. Fort Borj Sud, a 16th-century fortress, offers a different 360° perspective on the city, with the added bonus of access to the Weapons Museum. We recommend that you visit these two viewpoints at different times during your stay, to appreciate the immensity and diversity of Fez.
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Reason 7 – An authentic, well-connected destination, ideal as a travel base
We liked the fact that Fez has retained an authenticity that other Moroccan cities have partly lost to mass tourism. Less saturated than Marrakech, it remains an inhabited city, where daily life unfolds before your eyes in the souks, hammams and cafés of the medina. What’s more, its location makes it an ideal base from which to explore an exceptionally rich region. Less than 1 hour’s drive away, Meknes and its UNESCO heritage are well worth a full day’s visit. Volubilis, an ancient Roman capital with preserved mosaics, can also be reached in less than 1 hour. The spa village of Moulay Yacoub, 30 minutes away, promises a wellness break between two days of sightseeing. Further afield, the centuries-old cedar forests of Ifrane and Azrou in the Middle Atlas, and the spiritual village of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, complete a varied excursion program. Fès-Saïss international airport offers direct flights from Paris, Marseille, Lyon, Madrid and Brussels. The ONCF rail network links Fès to Casablanca and Rabat with frequent, comfortable trains.
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Reason 8 – A jewel to be discovered in all seasons
You’ll also love Fez, as it reveals a different face depending on the season you choose. In winter, temperatures oscillate between 15°C (59°F) and 18°C (64.4°F): ideal for long strolls through the medina without the summer heat, they also allow for in-depth cultural visits in a less crowded city. We appreciated this period for the long evenings spent sipping mint tea in the riads. Spring is undoubtedly the most balanced season: mild climate, favorable light for photography and, in May, the unique atmosphere of the Festival of World Sacred Music, which transforms the medina into an open-air stage. Temperatures range from 22°C (71.6°F) to 28°C (82.4°F).
Summer brings higher temperatures, between 30°C (86°F) and 40°C (104°F), but the coolness of the riads and Jnan Sbil gardens provide welcome refuges. Finally, autumn sees the return of quieter crowds and particularly beautiful golden lights on the ochre facades of the old town. And if you’re planning excursions to the Middle Atlas, there are ski resorts in the region, such as Michlifen, around 1h30 away.
DISCOVER Fez
Some disadvantages of a trip to Fez
Heavy traffic and traffic jams
As in most large Moroccan cities, traffic in Fez can be dense and sometimes disorderly, especially around the medina and in the new town during rush hour. The narrow streets of the medina are completely closed to motorized vehicles. We recommend that you plan to travel on foot within the ramparts, and book cabs or rental cars to reach the outer districts or excursions outside the city. The official “little red cabs” are a convenient and inexpensive way to get around the new town. Check that the meter is on when you get in.
Parking
Parking in Fez requires a little forethought. As the medina is off-limits to vehicles, you’ll need to park in the official parking lots located near the entrance gates. The most convenient options are the outdoor parking lots opposite Bab Chorfa and behind Bab Boujloud, as well as the Ain Zleten parking lot on rue Talaa Kbira. We also advise you to choose accommodation with a parking option if you’re coming by car. This will simplify logistics considerably! The new town also has secure pay parking lots, more info here. Bear in mind that once you’ve parked, walking is still the best way to explore the medina and surrounding area.
Pollution
Fès, like all of Morocco’s growing urban areas, is affected by urban pollution, particularly on the new town’s main roads. In the medina, on the other hand, the absence of motorized vehicles makes the air much more breathable. Note that the Tanneries Chouara emit a powerful ammonia odor linked to the leather treatment process: during our visit, fresh mint was provided at the entrance to mitigate this impression. It’s not unpleasant in itself, but it’s best to be aware of it, especially if you’re traveling with small children.
The weather
Fez has a continental Mediterranean climate, which means hot, dry summers and cool, sometimes rainy winters. In summer, temperatures can exceed 40°C (104°F) during the day, making long walks in the medina strenuous. In this case, we recommend early morning or late afternoon visits. In winter, temperatures drop and rain is possible, especially from November to February. If you’re planning excursions in the Middle Atlas, be prepared for more severe winter conditions, with the possibility of snow. Spring and autumn remain the most pleasant times to visit Fez with peace of mind.
Social contrast
Fès is a city of contrasting social realities. The medina, a UNESCO-listed and much-visited area, stands alongside working-class neighborhoods where poverty is visible. This contrast may come as a surprise to travelers discovering Morocco for the first time, but it’s an integral part of the city’s authenticity. We encourage you to approach these realities with respect and openness, without seeking to erase or idealize them. Also, expect to be approached by unofficial guides, especially around the gates of the medina. For a more relaxed experience, opt for official guides.
The tourist influx
With so much to offer, Fès attracts a growing number of visitors, particularly in spring and autumn, and during the Festival of Sacred Music in May, which draws large crowds from all over the city. The most popular sites, such as the Chouara Tanneries, the Médersa Attarine and the Bab Boujloud Gate, can be visited in high season. For a more leisurely visit, we recommend exploring these sites in the early morning and booking your tickets in advance whenever possible. Winter is the quietest time of the year, and the alleyways of the medina are much more comfortable to visit.
The rates
You’ll find that, overall, Fez remains an accessible destination, less expensive than the major European capitals. Access to the medina is free, as are the Jnan Sbil gardens and the outside areas around the monuments. The medersas charge a small fee, as does the Palais El Glaoui. On the other hand, charming accommodation in historic riads and gourmet restaurants are in price ranges comparable to European standards. We advise you to book your accommodation in advanceespecially for riads in prime medina locations, where availability is rapidly depleted in high season.
How to get to Fez
Fez is Morocco’s third-largest city, located in the north of the country. There are several options for getting there:
- By plane: Fès-Saïss international airport is a 30-minute drive from the city center. It has direct flights from many European cities – see available flights
- By train: the ONCF rail network links Fès to the main Moroccan cities with frequent, comfortable trains. Allow around 3h15 from Casablanca, 2h30 from Rabat and regular services from Tangiers and Marrakech.
- By bus: the CTM and Supratours companies serve Fez from the kingdom’s major cities. This is the most economical option, with regular departures from Casablanca, Marrakech or Tangiers.
- By car: Fès is linked by the A2 freeway to Rabat (2h30) and Casablanca (3h15), then to Tangiers (4h) via the A2 and A5 freeways. The roads are of good quality, making it easy to reach the city from the major Moroccan metropolises. If you want to rent a car in Morocco, we recommend that you book in advance, especially during the high season, so that you have plenty of choice.
- By excursion or private transfer: if you are staying in a neighboring city, guided tours of one or more days including transport and visits are available from Meknes, Casablanca or Rabat.
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO Morocco
- Best of
Top Destinations
Must-See Places in Morocco
Most Beautiful Riads
Most Beautiful Cities
Most Beautiful Medinas
Morocco’s Most Beautiful Landscapes
Most Beautiful Gardens
Best Museums
Morocco’s Most Beautiful Beaches
- Practical advice
When to go?
How to rent a car in Morocco
Driving tips
- The must-dos
Marrakech
Casablanca
Fez
Meknes
Chefchaouen
Essaouira
Rabat
Tangier
Tetouan
Agadir
The Sahara Desert
